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Pearls don't need much looking after. They just need the right kind.
A chain can take a polishing cloth, a silver dip or a scrub with a toothbrush. A pearl can't. Real pearls are grown, not made, and the glowing layer that makes them beautiful is softer than any metal in your collection. Treat them like a chain and they'll dull. Treat them like pearls and they'll keep their glow for years.
Lustre is what you're protecting. A little care keeps real pearls looking like this.
Below we'll cover how to clean pearls, why they need different care, a step-by-step clean, what never to use, whether pearls can get wet, how to wear and store them, how to clean pearl pieces with metal and stones, and the signs a piece needs attention.
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With a soft cloth, and not much else. For almost every pearl piece, this is the whole routine:
That's it. Most of what keeps pearls looking good isn't cleaning at all. It's what you keep away from them in the first place.
Because a pearl is organic. It's built from nacre, thin layers of calcium carbonate held together by a natural protein, laid down by the mollusc it grew in. That layered structure is what gives pearls their lustre, and it's also why they're delicate.
None of this makes pearls fragile to wear. It just means the care is different from metal. If you're not sure your pearls are real in the first place, our guide on how to tell if pearls are real walks through the tests.
Take a soft, lint-free cloth, microfibre or cotton, and run each section of the strand through it. Ten seconds is enough. This one habit does more for pearls than any deep clean, because it stops oils and residue from building up in the first place.
Work on the pearls, not the whole piece at once. Never drop pearls into the bowl.
Lay the piece flat on a dry towel and leave it until it's completely dry, ideally overnight. Hanging a damp strand puts weight on the thread while it's at its weakest, and putting pearls away wet traps moisture in the drill holes.
Pearls worn often, and wiped down after, tend to keep their glow best.
Most pearl damage comes from treating them like the rest of your jewellery. Here's what to keep them away from.
| Never | Why |
|---|---|
| Ultrasonic or steam cleaners | Vibration and heat can crack nacre and loosen the strand |
| Silver dip or jewellery cleaner | Made for metal; the chemicals strip the pearl's surface |
| Polishing cloths | They carry a fine abrasive that scratches nacre |
| Toothpaste or baking soda | Both are abrasive |
| Vinegar or lemon juice | Acid dissolves calcium carbonate |
| Bleach, ammonia or detergent | Harsh chemicals dull and discolour pearls |
| Soaking | Weakens the thread and gets into the drill holes |
| Brushes of any kind on the pearls | Even a soft toothbrush can scratch |
A lot of this is the opposite of what works for metal, which is why it's worth keeping two routines. For your chains, our guides to cleaning sterling silver, cleaning a silver chain and cleaning a gold chain cover the metal side properly.
A little water won't hurt them. A splash, a light shower of rain or a damp cloth is fine, as long as the pearls are dried properly afterwards. What they shouldn't do is spend time in water.
That's the one place pearl pieces are different from the rest of our jewellery. The hardware on our pearl pieces is 316L stainless steel, finished in 18K gold or rhodium, and built to handle water, heat and sweat. The pearls themselves need more care. So:
Wear them by the water. Take them off before you go in.
For the rest of your pieces on a trip away, our guide to men's holiday jewellery covers what to wear by the pool and in the sea.
The rule to remember is simple: last on, first off.
Get dressed, put on your fragrance, aftershave, moisturiser, sun cream and hair products, let them dry, and then put your pearls on. At the end of the day, take them off first, before you change or wash. That keeps them away from almost everything that dulls them.
Dressed, fragrance on, then pearls. Last on, first off.
A few other habits help:
Separately, flat and somewhere soft. Pearls are softer than every chain, ring and pendant they might share a box with, so a jumbled drawer is the quickest way to scratch them.
Store pearls flat, on their own, somewhere soft.
Travelling with them? Pack pearls in their own pouch, not loose with chains. If a necklace does tangle, our guide on how to untangle a necklace will help, but go gently with pearls.
Most men's pearl pieces aren't just pearls. They have clasps, gold spacers, pendants, filigree caps or set stones, and those parts need a little thought too.
Pendants and gold details: a soft, dry cloth is all they need.
The Chain Wrap Real Pearl Necklace. Steel and pearl in one piece, cleaned with one soft cloth.
Every few weeks, have a quick look over your pearl pieces. You're checking for:
Check the clasp end now and then. That's where any strung piece works hardest.
For anything beyond a clean, like restringing a strand or repairing a clasp, take it to a jeweller who works with pearls. It's a small job next to replacing a piece you love.
Yes, but only a little. Wipe them with a soft cloth dampened in lukewarm water, then let them dry flat. Never soak pearls or run them under the tap, because water can weaken the thread and seep into the drill holes.
A drop of mild, unscented soap in lukewarm water is fine for an occasional deeper clean. Dip a soft cloth, wipe each pearl, then wipe again with a cloth dampened in clean water. Avoid detergents and anything with bleach or ammonia.
It's best not to. Shower gel, shampoo and hot water all dull pearls over time and put strain on the strand. The steel hardware on our pieces can handle water, but the pearls need a little more care, so take them off first.
No. Chlorine and salt water are both hard on nacre. Take your pearls off before the pool or the sea, and put them back on once you're dry.
Wipe them with a soft, dry cloth every time you take them off. A gentle clean with mild soapy water every few months, or whenever they start to look dull, is plenty.
No. Polishing cloths carry a fine abrasive that's made for metal and will scratch nacre. Use a plain soft cloth on pearls, and keep the polishing cloth for your silver chains.
Usually build-up from fragrance, sun cream, sweat or skin oils. A gentle clean often brings the glow back. If the surface has been worn through or dissolved by chemicals, that damage is permanent.
Some do, slowly, with age, heat or contact with chemicals like perfume and hairspray. It can't be reversed at home, so the best prevention is keeping pearls clean, cool and away from cosmetics.
Wipe them after you wear them, keep them away from fragrance and water, and store them on their own. Do those three things and real pearls will look as good in years as they do today.
Explore the full Men's Real Pearl Necklace Collection, find out why men wear pearl necklaces, and if you wear pearls on your wrist too, our men's pearl bracelet guide covers how to choose and style one.
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