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A 925 stamp tells you one thing precisely, and a lot of things not at all.
It tells you exactly how much silver is in the metal. It doesn't tell you whether the piece is well made, whether it'll suit you, or whether it's worth the money. And its absence doesn't mean a piece is fake, which is where most people go wrong with it.
Below we'll cover what the number actually means, how to read every other mark you'll find on silver and gold, what it means when there's no stamp at all, and how to check a piece properly.
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925 means the metal is 92.5% pure silver. The remaining 7.5% is another metal, almost always copper.
That's it. It's a purity figure, written as parts per thousand: 925 parts silver in every 1,000 parts of metal.
The obvious question is why anyone would water down silver at all. The answer is that pure silver is too soft to be much use. It bends, it scratches, and it won't hold a clasp or a setting under daily wear. Adding a small amount of copper makes it hard enough to actually wear, without changing the colour or the feel in any way you'd notice.
So 925 isn't a compromise. It's the ratio the trade settled on centuries ago because it works, and it's what "sterling silver" means. The two terms are interchangeable.
A hallmark is an independent guarantee of what a metal actually is, stamped by someone other than the person selling it to you.
Britain has been doing this since the 1300s, which makes it one of the oldest consumer protection systems still running. The idea then was the same as it is now: a maker has an obvious incentive to overstate how much precious metal is in a piece, so the check is done by an independent assay office instead.
It still has legal teeth here. Silver sold in the UK above 7.78 grams has to carry a hallmark from a UK assay office. Below that weight the requirement drops away, which is worth knowing before you assume a light chain has been mislabelled.
A full British hallmark is more than the number. It carries a sponsor's mark identifying the maker, the fineness figure, and the assay office that tested it. Most of the silver you'll handle day to day carries a simpler stamp than that, and a plain "925" is perfectly normal on imported and modern pieces.
All of these work the same way: parts per thousand.
| Mark | Purity | Where you'll see it |
|---|---|---|
| 999 | 99.9% | Fine silver. Too soft for most jewellery, more common in bullion. |
| 960 / 935 | 96% / 93.5% | Argentium. A modern sterling variant using germanium, noticeably more tarnish-resistant. |
| 958 | 95.8% | Britannia silver. A higher British standard than sterling. |
| 925 | 92.5% | Sterling silver. The standard for jewellery worldwide. |
| 900 | 90% | Coin silver. Mostly American antiques, historically made from melted coinage. |
| 835 | 83.5% | Common on older continental European pieces. |
| 800 | 80% | Often German or Italian, frequently on older cutlery and tableware. |
This is where most confusion lives, because several marks contain "925" without meaning the piece is sterling all the way through.
And the part most guides skip: a stamp is a claim, not proof. Stamps are struck by the manufacturer, and nothing physically stops someone striking 925 into metal that contains no silver. A UK assay office hallmark is independently verified, which is precisely why the system exists. A plain 925 on an imported piece is not. That's the reason the tests further down matter, and why a stamp on its own should raise your confidence rather than settle the question.
Several materials sold as silver have no silver in them whatsoever. These are worth knowing by name.
Nickel silver, German silver, alpaca. Three names for the same thing: an alloy of copper, nickel and zinc. The silver in the name describes the colour, not the contents. There is no silver in it at any percentage. It's also a common cause of skin reactions, since nickel is one of the more frequent contact allergies.
Silver-plated. A microscopically thin layer of silver over a base metal. Real silver, but so little of it that the piece has essentially no material value, and the layer wears through with use.
Silver-filled. A middle ground that appeared as silver prices rose. A thicker bonded layer, usually 5% or 10% of total weight, marked as 1/20 or 1/10 sterling. More durable than plating, still not solid.
Silver-tone. A description of a colour, with no claim about materials at all. Whenever you see it, that's the point: it's telling you nothing, deliberately.
If you've ever wondered why gold jewellery has three-digit numbers on it too, this is why. It's the same parts-per-thousand scale.
Worth clearing up a common mix-up: all of those are solid gold. A 750 piece is 18 carat solid gold that happens to be alloyed for strength, exactly like sterling silver is. Alloying isn't plating, and it doesn't make a piece less genuine.
Plated and vermeil pieces are a different thing again, and they don't carry a gold purity stamp for the piece as a whole, because the gold is only on the surface. A vermeil piece will often carry a 925 stamp instead, since the metal underneath the gold is sterling silver. Our guide to 18K gold vs gold vermeil covers how those are built.
An unstamped piece isn't automatically fake. There are four reasonable explanations, and only one of them is bad news.
It's under the legal weight. UK hallmarking only kicks in above 7.78 grams for silver. Plenty of genuine light chains and small pendants carry nothing.
It's plated or silver-tone. A thin layer of silver, or no silver at all, over a base metal. This is the one to watch for, and it's the most common.
The stamp has worn away. On an older piece that's been worn for decades, a shallow stamp on a clasp can genuinely disappear.
It isn't silver, and was never meant to be. Plenty of good jewellery is made from something else entirely. Stainless steel is the obvious one, and it carries no silver mark because there's no silver in it.
If you're buying and there's no stamp, the honest answer is that the seller should be able to tell you what the metal is. If they can't, that's the useful signal, not the missing stamp itself.
Three tests you can do at home, in order of how much they actually tell you.
The magnet test. Silver isn't magnetic. If a piece jumps to a magnet, there's a meaningful amount of iron or steel in it. Worth knowing this only rules things out: plenty of non-silver metals aren't magnetic either, so passing this test doesn't prove much on its own.
The ice test. Silver conducts heat better than any other metal, which is a genuinely useful property here. Put an ice cube on the piece and it should start melting noticeably faster than one sat on a table. It's a surprisingly good indicator and it costs nothing.
Weight and feel. Silver is dense. A sterling chain has a heft to it that a plated base metal usually doesn't, and once you've handled both the difference becomes obvious.
One test to skip: bending the piece to see if it gives. You'll find it recommended, and it can permanently damage something that was genuine all along.
If it really matters, an assay office or a jeweller can test a piece properly. An acid test or an XRF scan settles it in minutes, and both are worth the small fee on anything inherited or expensive. That's the only method on this page that produces proof rather than a strong indication.
Two different answers, and the gap between them catches people out.
The metal value is straightforward arithmetic. A sterling piece is 92.5% silver by weight, so a scrap buyer works out the weight, takes 92.5% of it, and pays a percentage of the current silver spot price. That last part is the catch: scrap buyers pay below spot, because they need a margin to refine and resell. Silver is also a fraction of the price of gold by weight, so even a heavy sterling chain rarely adds up to much as raw material.
The retail value is mostly not the metal at all. You're paying for the design, the making, the finishing, the guarantee behind it, and the brand. On most silver jewellery the metal is a minority of what you spent, which is why resale so often disappoints people who assumed a precious metal holds its price the way gold bullion does.
None of that makes sterling a bad buy. It makes it a piece of jewellery rather than an investment, and those are two different purchases. If you want silver as a store of value, bullion does that job properly. If you want something to wear for twenty years, buy on how it's made and how often you'll actually wear it.
We opened by saying the number tells you the purity and nothing about the quality. Worth finishing that thought, because two chains can both be honestly stamped 925 and be nothing like each other to own.
Solid or hollow. The one most people never think to check, and the one that matters most. Plenty of sterling chains are made hollow, with the links formed from thin tube rather than solid wire. It keeps the weight and the price down, and it looks identical in a photograph. In the hand it feels light for its size, it dents if you catch it, and once a hollow link crushes it's usually beyond a clean repair. Solid links cost more to make because there's more silver in them, and they're the reason one chain outlives another.
The clasp. Where chains actually fail. A clasp takes every bit of stress the piece ever sees, and a weak one is how people lose necklaces. It's worth a close look before anything else on the chain.
The finish. Look at where the links meet. On a well-made chain the cuts are sharp and even and the polish is consistent all the way round, including the parts that sit against your neck. On a cheap one the joins are soft, the polish is patchy, and it dulls faster because the surface was never properly finished in the first place.
What stands behind it. A guarantee is a maker telling you, in writing, how long they actually expect a piece to last. It's the least romantic signal on this list and one of the more reliable ones.
For what it's worth, that's the list we build to: our sterling chains are solid rather than hollow, handmade using traditional techniques for cleaner-cut links and a high-polish finish, and carry a lifetime guarantee. You don't have to take our word for any of it. Those four things are checkable on any piece from anyone, which is rather the point of listing them.
Worth being straight about this, because it's a question we get asked.
Our sterling silver range is genuine 925 and stamped accordingly. Solid sterling, alloyed to the same standard as any fine jewellery.
Most of our silver-tone pieces carry no 925 stamp, because they aren't silver. They're 316L stainless steel finished in rhodium. That isn't a downgrade or a shortcut, it's a different material chosen for a different job: steel doesn't tarnish, doesn't corrode and holds up to daily wear in a way sterling silver doesn't pretend to.
So if you've bought a silver-tone chain from us and found no hallmark on it, nothing is wrong. You've got the steel-core piece, and it's doing exactly what it was built to do.
Which of the two suits you is a genuine question rather than a ranking, and our guide to 925 sterling silver vs stainless steel walks through when each one makes sense.
Yes. 925 is sterling silver, 92.5% pure silver alloyed with about 7.5% copper for strength. It's the standard the jewellery trade works to worldwide, and it's as real as silver gets in a wearable piece.
They're two names for the same thing. Sterling silver is defined as 92.5% pure silver, and 925 is that figure written as parts per thousand. If a piece is one, it's the other.
Yes. The S just stands for silver, so S925 means sterling, exactly the same as a plain 925. It's very common on jewellery made in China and Thailand, which is why people assume it means something worse. It doesn't.
As metal, less than most people expect. A scrap buyer pays a percentage of the silver spot price on 92.5% of the piece's weight, and silver is a fraction of gold's value by weight. What you paid at retail was mostly design, making and finishing rather than the metal itself.
Yes, and that's normal. Sterling silver reacts with sulphur compounds in the air and darkens over time. It's completely reversible, and our guide to cleaning a silver chain covers the method.
A shower now and then won't ruin it, but soap residue dulls the surface and sitting wet speeds up tarnishing, so drying it properly matters. Pools and the sea are worth avoiding altogether, since chlorine and salt are harder on sterling than plain water is.
You can't tell from the stamp itself, which is the whole problem: manufacturers strike their own marks, so a stamp is a claim rather than proof. Test the metal instead. A magnet check and an ice test will catch most fakes at home, and an acid test or XRF scan from a jeweller settles it properly.
For most people, yes. Sterling is silver and copper, and neither commonly causes reactions. The usual culprit is nickel, which isn't in standard sterling but is in nickel silver, in some plating, and occasionally in cheaper alloys sold as silver. If you react to a piece, the base metal is the more likely cause than the sterling.
Occasionally, and it's the copper rather than the silver doing it. It's harmless, more likely in humid weather or on skin that runs acidic, and it washes off. It isn't a sign the piece is fake.
Either it's under the weight where hallmarking is required, or it isn't silver. Stainless steel, white gold and silver-plated pieces all look similar and none of them carry a silver mark.
The number is simpler than it looks. 925 means 92.5% silver, the same way 750 means 75% gold, and neither one tells you whether a piece is any good.
Have a look through our silver chain collection if you're adding to yours, or the full guide to men's chain styles if you're still deciding what suits you.
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